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Erba and Maty’s Miami Named Esquire’s Top Restaurants of 2023

December 13, 2023 by Jacki Taylor

Esquire 2023 Restaurants




In the ever-evolving landscape of American dining, a wave of radical authenticity is making its presence felt, bringing a thrilling edge to our culinary experiences. This isn't just about food; it's a narrative of chefs daringly sharing their personal stories through their creations. This movement might be an unconscious reaction to the looming shadows of artificial intelligence and virtual realms, or simply a celebration of the human spirit in its purest form. Whatever the catalyst, the result is a dining scene that is raw, vulnerable, occasionally bizarre, but above all, profoundly human.





Consider the whole fish, a dish of ultimate realness that graces the menus of many establishments in the forty-first edition of Esquire's "Best New Restaurants" guide. This year, real people like Jeff Gordinier, Joshua David Stein, and Omar Mamoon, ventured across the United States, tasting offerings from over two hundred new eateries. Their journey, fueled by passion and discerning palates, led to select fifty exceptional restaurants, each a beacon of culinary brilliance.





Erba Miami





When you step into Erba, you're immediately enveloped in an atmosphere of grandeur. This isn't just a restaurant; it's a realm where each evening promises an immersive experience in both luxury and warmth. The magic begins with the team led by Chef Niven Patel and his partner Mo Alkassar, whose hospitality is as heartfelt as it is impeccable.





At the core of Erba's allure is its unique culinary approach: a fusion of Italian tradition with a distinct Florida twist. Imagine the wonders of handmade mafaldine pasta intertwined with the exotic flavors of Bahamian conch. Or consider their tiramisu, which creatively embraces a hint of tres leches, offering a delightful surprise to your taste buds.





However, what truly sets Erba apart is its crudo. Prepared with locally-sourced wahoo and garnished with freshly plucked star fruit from Rancho Patel, Chef Patel’s own farm, the dish is a testament to the restaurant's deep respect for fresh, local ingredients.





The philosophy of honoring simple ingredients is also vividly reflected in their other venture, Ghee—an Indian restaurant where Patel and Alkassar serve a steamed green millet that transforms a modest ingredient into something utterly sublime.





Erba isn't just about serving Italian cuisine; it's about elevating it through simplicity and a profound respect for the ingredients. Whether you're a fan of Italian food or just someone who appreciates culinary excellence, Erba promises an experience that goes beyond the ordinary. It's not just a place to dine; it's a destination to become a regular, where every visit feels like a new journey into the heart of flavor and hospitality.





Maty's Miami





In the world of upscale dining, small plates featuring raw fish, such as crudos, have become a staple. These dishes, while delightful, often blend into the background of many high-end menus, serving more as an elegant accessory than a standout feature. However, this culinary narrative takes a dramatic turn at Maty's, where Chef Valerie Chang transforms the ordinary into the extraordinary.





At Maty's, the ceviches and tiraditos – a Peruvian specialty where fish is sliced in the style of sashimi and paired with vivid sauces – offer an experience akin to jumping from a 3D movie into a 4D spectacle. Here, the dining becomes an immersive journey, with each flavor and texture creating a vivid, multi-sensory adventure.





Take, for instance, the ocean trout, which embarks on a tropical escapade with the addition of passion fruit, each morsel crowned with thinly sliced gooseberries. Or consider the kanpachi, elegantly arranged with layers of kohlrabi, kiwi berry, and a bright, zesty aji dulce sauce. These dishes don't just tantalize the taste buds; they transport you to another realm of culinary delight.





While it's tempting to indulge solely in these aquatic delights, overlooking other menu items would be a misstep. The choclo, a concoction of sweet corn, pecorino, and a spicy Huancaína cheese sauce, rivals the comfort and addiction of the finest mac and cheese. It's a dish that marries simplicity with sophistication in a way that's both comforting and novel.





And then there's the Wagyu oxtail saltado – a dish that redefines luxury. The contrast of crisp potatoes with the rich, buttery oxtail creates a symphony of textures and flavors, elevating the dish to a surreal level of deliciousness.





Maty's isn't just about dining; it's about experiencing a culinary world where every dish is a star, and every bite is a journey. Chef Valerie Chang's menu invites you not just to taste, but to explore a universe of flavors that are as enchanting as they are exquisite.





True innovation in the kitchen is a gamble, but when it pays off, it's transformative, filling not just our stomachs but our souls with an indescribable spark. It's a rare gem, this combination of fulfillment and delight, but it's a pursuit worth every effort. Let this be your map to a culinary adventure that celebrates not just food, but the essence of what it means to be authentically, wonderfully human.


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